🎬Introduction
The Sé Cathedral is the most important church in Porto, serving as the bishop’s seat and one of the city’s oldest buildings. The bishopric of Porto is one of the oldest in Portugal, dating back to the kingdom of the Suebi in the 5th and 6th centuries. The Sé Cathedral, as we see it today, is a Romanesque-Gothic structure built from the second half of the 12th century.
📖 The Story
🚩Location
Situated at the highest point in the city, the Sé Cathedral is clearly visible even from the opposite bank of the Douro River. It also serves as a significant viewpoint from the tops of its towers. The cathedral’s structure is seamlessly integrated with the adjacent Cathedral Square, known as Terreiro da Sé. In the center of this square, a Manueline pillory topped with a crown was placed in 1945, replacing an earlier one from 1797. This pillory was used for public punishment, with hooks to which fraudsters and criminals were tied, exposing them to public shame and disgrace at the city’s most prominent spot.
🏛️Architecture of the Cathedral
Construction of the cathedral likely began in 1110, with the impressive three-aisle pilgrimage church designed under the newly appointed Bishop Hugo. Initially, the construction was slow and eventually halted. It resumed under Bishop Fernando Martins in collaboration with architect Soeiro Anes and craftsmen from Coimbra.
The long construction period and nearly millennial heritage of the cathedral led to multiple changes, improvements, and enhancements, reflecting the styles and capabilities of successive generations of architects, artists, and patrons. The oldest style, Romanesque, is evident in the building’s form and its Gothic towers. The medieval structure needed to serve both sacred and defensive purposes, as indicated by its thick, high walls and small windows. The innovative stone roof of the main nave, supported by flying buttresses, was among the first uses of such a technique in Portugal. Gothic influences include the 13th-century rose window above the portal and the 1333 tomb chapel of Hospitaller knight John Gordo, adorned with a reclining statue of the knight and Apostles’ bas-reliefs. Another Gothic feature is the elegant cloister built between the 14th and 15th centuries during the reign of King John I. Significant events associated with King John I, the first of the Aviz dynasty, took place here, including his 1387 marriage to English princess Philippa of Lancaster. Their exceptional children, hailed as the “Illustrious Generation” by Luís de Camões in “The Lusiads,” were baptized here, heralding Portugal’s golden age with Prince Henry the Navigator at the forefront.
The Baroque period brought further significant changes to the Sé Cathedral. In 1736, the renowned Italian architect Nicolau Nasoni added an elegant loggia to the side façade, facing the city. In 1772, the portal was remodeled in the Rococo style, and domes were added to the towers. A statue of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary was placed in a niche above the entrance.
Interiors of the Cathedral
The cathedral’s layout follows a Latin cross, and its main nave has retained its Romanesque appearance. Near the entrance is a monumental 18th-century baptismal font with a bas-relief by Teixeira Lopes (the elder) depicting the baptism of Jesus in the Jordan.
The main altar is a significant example of Baroque art, created between 1727 and 1729. Designed by distinguished Lisbon architects Claude Laprade and Santos Pacheco, it was executed by notable artists and craftsmen. The altar features gilded figures of Saints Nepomucenus, Benedict, Bernard, and Basil, decorated using the Iberian technique of talha dourada, where carved wood is gilded. The presbytery walls are adorned with paintings by Nasoni.
Noteworthy is the medieval statue of the Madonna and Child, located on the left side of the transept. This is Our Lady of Vandoma, the patron saint of Porto, whose image also appears in the city’s coat of arms. The statue was moved to the cathedral in the mid-19th century from one of the portals in the dismantled city walls.
At the end of the transept is the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, housing a famous silver altar created in stages from 1632 to the first half of the 19th century, representing one of the finest examples of Portuguese silver decorative art.
Cloisters and Chapels
A visit to the cathedral includes the monastic cloisters, commissioned by Bishop John III, featuring 16 double arches carved from stone, echoing the design of the Coimbra cathedral. A medieval stone crucifix is placed at the cloisters’ center, with three chapels dedicated to Our Lady in the corners. In the 17th century, the chapels were adorned with azulejos panels by artist Valentim da Almeida, depicting biblical scenes from the Song of Songs.
The cloisters lead to the sacristy, decorated with frescoes by Nasoni, and then to a staircase leading to the monastic patio. The staircase adjoins the Chapel of Saint Vincent, notable for its granite ceiling. Built between 1582 and 1591, the chapel was intended as the bishops’ pantheon.
The final room is the chapter house, remodeled from an old building in 1717, accessible through two doors designed by Nasoni. The ground floor served as a granary, while the first floor now houses the cathedral treasury. The second floor contains three rooms: the Chapter Room, the Archive, and the Antechamber. Special attention should be given to the 18th-century paintings in the Archive depicting Saint Michael and allegories of the four seasons, and the mansard ceiling in the Chapter Room adorned with gilded wooden coffers. The Antechamber is a remnant of the former Gothic cloister.
🚶♀ Visit
Admission to the Sé Cathedral is ticketed and includes access to the cloisters, the cathedral, and the tower. A combined ticket with the Bishop’s Palace is also available.