European Ribbon

📖  Introduction

Towering over Pena Ventosa Hill, the slender and lofty Clerigos Tower, visible in nearly every panoramic photo of Porto, was the tallest structure in all of Portugal when it was built. Today, it stands as an undisputed symbol of the city. For years, it has served as the bell tower of the Baroque Clerigos Church, forming the greatest work of the city’s renowned architect, the Italian artist and decorator Niccola Nasoni (1691-1773).

⛪Clerigos Church

The Brotherhood Irmandade dos Clerigos was established in 1707 by merging three 17th-century brotherhoods that shared a mission of assisting clergy in difficult situations, such as illness or poverty. The newly formed Brotherhood of Our Lady of Mercy of St. Peter ad Vincula and St. Philip Neri, known as the Brotherhood of Clerigos, had its own statutes and crest, featuring the monogram of Mary, the keys and papal tiara of St. Peter, and the lily of St. Philip Neri. This symbolized the patrons of the church: Our Lady of the Assumption, St. Peter in Chains (ad vincula), and St. Philip Neri, known as the Saint of Joy

Initially, the new brotherhood gathered around the Church of Mercy, but after receiving a piece of land in Campo do Olival, they began building their own headquarters. Niccola Nasoni’s innovative design for the church was approved in 1731, and construction began in April 1732. Seventeen years later, in 1749, the church was deemed complete, although interior work and later chapel expansions continued until 1779.

The resulting temple was the first church in Portugal built on an elliptical plan (previously, churches were built on a cross plan). It also featured a unique Tuscan-style gallery surrounding the entire nave, allowing additional views of the interior.

The dome rested on six pilasters and bore the Brotherhood’s crest made of simulated granite. Below were two pulpits adorned with gilded balustrades and four side altars dedicated to the Blessed Sacrament, Our Lady of Sorrows, St. Andrew Avellino, and St. Benedict. The main chapel’s altar, made of marble in a vertical rectangular shape, was constructed between 1767 and 1780 based on Manuel dos Santos Porto’s design. It featured a throne topped with an image of Our Lady of the Assumption, flanked by painted statues of St. Peter ad Vincula and St. Philip Neri.

The presbytery housed two sets of organs with Iberian pipes, both started in 1774. Light streaming through numerous windows enhanced the golden glow of the church’s sculptures, creating a beautiful play of colors with the marble.

The exterior’s Baroque character is most evident in the church’s main facade, particularly its summit. Nasoni skillfully combined straight and semicircular lines, adorned with ornamental and symbolic motifs like plant bundles, shells, vases, and garlands, topped with small pointed turrets.

The church is one of Niccola Nasoni’s most splendid works. Porto owes many of its sacred and civil buildings to him, shaping the city’s architectural panorama. Dubbed the Michelangelo of Porto, the distinguished architect died on August 30, 1773, and was buried in the Clerigos Church.

🔔Clerigos Tower

The 75.6-meter-high (248.04 feet) tower, built of granite and marble, has six floors with 225 steps leading to the top. There, two viewing terraces offer a magnificent view of Porto and its surroundings.

The Brotherhood of Clerigos commissioned Niccolo Nasoni to design the bell tower in 1753. Construction was completed in July 1763, with an iron cross placed atop and an image of Saint Peter above the door. The tower’s distinct separation from the church’s main structure, derived from Italian campaniles, is notable. The building is almost devoid of decoration, relying on its slender structure and proper proportions for its elegance.

Inside, there is a carillon of 49 bells, the largest such ensemble in Portugal, which plays various melodies using the bells’ hearts.

🚶Visit

Church tours are free. Entry to the tower is paid but includes access to a small museum and the choir. Exhibits include the “Lusiads” by Camoes from 1880, dedicated to Emperor Dom Pedro II of Brazil.