europeanribbon-logo

Igreja do Carmo: the roofless church and its unusual interior

🎬 Introduction

Unprecedented in its appearance, the roofless, colossal skeleton of the Carmelite monastery church compels anyone passing by to take notice. Towering over Rossio Square, this structure stands as a silent witness and a memorial to the devastating earthquake that struck the city in 1755.

📖 The Story
Dom Nuno Álvares Pereira 

Convento-do-Carmo-Lisbon-RossioThe Convento do Carmo monastery, founded in 1389, owes its existence to the tireless efforts of Alvares Pereira (1360-1431), one of Portugal’s most distinguished and valiant figures. Beatified in 2009, Pereira played a pivotal role in King John I the Great’s ascent to the Portuguese throne in 1385, marking the beginning of the country’s golden era. Pereira wasn’t merely an exceptional commander; he was also a brilliant military strategist. Leading from the front, visor raised, he employed innovative tactics such as organizing square infantry units armed with pikes to counter the enemy’s cavalry. This strategic prowess culminated in the first-ever Lisbon-Nuno-Pereiravictory of foot soldiers over heavy cavalry on the Iberian Peninsula. The decisive battle against the Castilian army at Aljubarrota in 1385 secured Portugal’s independence and sovereignty.

In gratitude, the king granted Pereira extensive fiefs, making him the wealthiest and largest landowner in the realm. Born out of deep religious devotion, Pereira’s legacy extended beyond the battlefield. He funded the construction of the Carmelite church and monastery, where he spent his final years, forsaking armor for the monastic habit and residing in one of the austere cells.

The Order of Carmelites

The Carmelite Order, named after Mount Carmel in Palestine, made its way to Portugal from the Holy Land. These monks served as military chaplains, dedicated to safeguarding sacred sites under the patronage of Saint John of Jerusalem.

Initially, they resided in a monastery gifted to them in Moura, which had been constructed by the military in 1251. However, during the late 14th and early 15th centuries, Alvares Pereira’s guidance led them to relocate to Lisbon. By 1421, this modest convent was home to 42 devoted monks.

Convento do Carmo and Igreja do Carmo

The construction of the monastic complex, which began in 1389, was at that time the most ambitious architectural project in the city. However, progress on the church’s construction was slow due to unstable ground conditions causing structural issues and numerous cracks. In fact, the entire southern side of the church collapsed in 1399. To overcome these challenges, the building was reinforced with five semicircular buttresses, which can still be seen today when approaching the church from the Santa Justa elevator side.

Igreja-do-Carmo-museo

The Gothic church was exclusively constructed from stone and marble, occasionally supplemented with wooden elements. The most elegant part of the building was its eastern facade, opposite the main entrance. The church, laid out in the shape of a Latin cross, was adorned with rich decorations and crowned by a stone roof. Unfortunately, on November 1, 1755, an earthquake estimated at 9 on the Richter scale struck Lisbon, causing the roof to collapse. The entire complex suffered, including the irreplaceable loss of over 5,000 volumes from the monastery’s library.

After the catastrophe, the Igreja do Carmo Church was never rebuilt. Although reconstruction efforts began three years after the earthquake, they were eventually abandoned. During Queen Maria I’s reign, the decision was made to preserve only parts of the monastery buildings, excluding the church. Today, the monastery building serves as the headquarters of the National Guard.

As for the church building, it was only in 1864 that the Portuguese Archaeologists Association (RAACAP) took over, not without difficulty. Thanks to their benefactor, Joaquim Possidónio Narciso da Silva, they transformed the ruined structure into their headquarters and established an archaeological museum within it.

It’s also worth mentioning the symbolic role of the Carmelite Monastery in the 20th century. On April 25, 1974, during the Carnation Revolution, the last president of the toppled dictatorship—Marcelo Caetano of the New State—sought refuge within its walls. This historic event is commemorated by a large photograph displayed inside the church’s entrance.

🚶Visit

Igreja-do-Carmo-Lisbon-inside

Visiting the Igreja do Carmo Church allows you to explore the interior of an exceptional skeletal structure, offering a majestic view of the open sky. Medieval columns, sometimes connected by arches from the original vaulting, complement the scene, along with a partially preserved rose window. In the deeper sections of the building, corresponding to the main nave and apse, you’ll find the Museu Arqueológico do Carmo, a small archaeological museum showcasing various periods of Portugal’s history.

Undoubtedly, the museum’s most valuable exhibits include the Gothic tomb of King Ferdinand I, who reigned in the second half of the 14th century, and a statue believed to represent one of the 12th-century rulers of Portugal—likely the first king, Alfonso I the Conqueror.

Adjacent to the church, you’ll discover the National Guard Museum within the monastery.

✔ Planner

Orientation:

🚇 Baixa-Chiado Station: Take the metro to Baixa-Chiado station (where the blue line intersects with the green line). From there, it’s a 5-minute walk to Largo do Carmo Square.

🚇Rossio Station and Calçada do Carmo: Alternatively, take the metro to Rossio station and walk along Calçada do Carmo to reach the Carmo Convent.

🛗 Santa Justa Elevator: You can also use the Santa Justa Elevator, which has its upper level right next to the entrance of the Carmo Archaeological Museum.

Explore the exhibits and interior tour plan of the church 🌐 to download here. Additionally, to check the current prices of the tickets click 🌐 here.
🎫 Tickets online & ⏰ Open Hours
Carmo Archaeological Museum
🌍 38.7120383, -9.1406129
Monday
10:00 AM – 06:00 PM
Tuesday
10:00 AM – 06:00 PM
Wednesday
10:00 AM – 06:00 PM
Thursday
10:00 AM – 06:00 PM
Friday
10:00 AM – 06:00 PM
Saturday
10:00 AM – 06:00 PM
Sunday
Closed
Powered by GetYourGuide
🌡°C
🥰
📖
Cookie Consent with Real Cookie Banner