📖 Introduction

Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, holds the distinction of being the westernmost capital in Europe. It thrives as a vibrant cultural melting pot, despite its relatively smaller size compared to other European capitals. Travelers, however, face a unique challenge due to its location on seven hills—reminiscent of Rome—but with steeper inclines. Thankfully, convenient elevators are strategically placed throughout the city. Some are discreetly tucked away in shopping centers, while others resemble street trams. Among them all, the historic Santa Justa Elevator reigns supreme.

Lisbon’s administrative center is intricately divided into 53 districts (freguesias), while the broader metropolitan area encompasses 18 municipalities (municípios). The western part of the city is predominantly graced by Monsanto Park, an expansive urban oasis that claims the title of Europe’s largest park. Covering an impressive 10 km² (3.86 square miles), this green haven provides respite from the bustling cityscape. Lisbon metropolitan area, with its approximately 3 million inhabitants, proudly stands as Portugal’s largest and most vibrant city.

Lisbon is a tapestry of charm and adventure, with its winding alleys in the historic Alfama district, resonates with the haunting melodies of fado music. The symmetrical streets of Baixa exude elegance, while fearless sailors embark on journeys from Belém’s shores. The cityscape boasts buildings adorned in exceptional Manueline architecture—a style that leaves an indelible mark. Lisbon’s meticulously paved sidewalks are veritable works of art, and the vintage trams that glide through its streets enhance its unique ambiance. With captivating vistas, sensory delights, and an irresistible pull on the heartstrings, Lisbon stands as Portugal’s exceptional capital—a place of diversity, tolerance, and endless exploration.

How Lisbon was shaped

When contemplating Lisbon and Portugal, our journey must commence in the year 1147. It was during this pivotal time that Alfonso I the Conqueror embarked on a triumphant second endeavor to reclaim the city from the Moors. These North African Muslims had held sway over the region since the 8th century CE. On the hills of Lisbon, which they called Al-Uxbuna, they constructed a walled and impregnable fortress. Alfonso I, who would later be crowned the first king of Portugal, achieved his victory with the aid of Christian forces, united through their participation in the Second Crusade. The city’s gates swung open after a protracted siege, around October 24.

Yet Lisbon’s story predates both the Portuguese and the Moors. Archaeological discoveries reveal traces left by Visigoths, Barbarians, Romans, and even Phoenicians. As early as the 7th century BCE, these ancient settlers fortified the land that would eventually become Lisbon.

The capture of Lisbon in 1147 held immense significance for the nascent Kingdom of Portugal. However, it took another century for this strategically positioned city to ascend to capital status. In 1256, King Alfonso II of Boulogne made the momentous decision to relocate the capital from Coimbra to Lisbon.

The emergence of the Portuguese state was marked by relentless struggles for independence and sovereignty, particularly in the shadow of powerful neighboring Spain—specifically, the Kingdom of Castile. A decisive turning point occurred during the Battle of Aljubarrota in 1385. Under the leadership of the beatified knight Nuno Álvares Pereira, the Portuguese army triumphed over the superior Castilian forces, averting the specter of independence loss for years to come.

These were the years when Portugal’s history was etched in golden letters, as the era of great geographical discoveries unfolded. This small country, nestled between mighty Spain and the boundless Atlantic waters, opened itself to the ocean. Portugal became a haven for explorers, navigation pioneers, and intrepid mariners. In the 15th and 16th centuries, it astounded the world and charted new trade routes and colonies, benefiting the diverse denizens of the old continent. Figures like Henry the Navigator and Vasco da Gama remain among Portugal’s most illustrious, but often joining their ranks is Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo—the Marquis of Pombal.

This historical figure is indelibly linked to Lisbon, especially during its greatest tragedy—the earthquake of November 1, 1755. This seismic catastrophe, Europe’s most devastating, shook Lisbon to its core. The earthquake’s destruction, estimated at the highest level on the Richter scale, was compounded by a massive tsunami and six days of raging fires. Firestorms consumed everything, rivaling the devastation witnessed in Hamburg or Dresden during World War II. Today, residents, historians, and tourists somberly contemplate the roofless Igreja do Carmo church, view paintings depicting the vanished royal palace—Palacio de Ribeira—or recall the grandeur of the Royal National Theater (known as the Opera by the Tagus), which opened just 215 days before the tragedy. That is why today, it is the Marquis de Pombal who looks at us from his numerous monuments in Lisbon, because it was, he who, in the face of this enormous tragedy, when even the king fell ill, rose to the occasion and protected the city from the threatening epidemic, looting and chaos. His crisis management plans and meticulous design of the symmetrical and enchanting Baixa district echo the spirit of modern-day Manhattan.

Lisbon suffered irrevocable losses to its wealth and treasures. To compound matters, in the early 19th century, the Portuguese royal family fled the country as Napoleon’s forces approached the city gates in late 1807. Officially, their relocation to Brazil aimed to thwart French attempts at establishing new authority. However, King John VI returned to Portugal only after 14 years, despite the French occupation lasting a mere 9 months. Unfortunately, the following years were marked by upheavals caused directly by the royal family, which struggled to give up absolute power. The 19th century also witnessed radical changes within the Catholic Church, including monastery confiscations and the dissolution of religious orders. The consequence of this chaos and transformation was a slowdown in Lisbon’s development.

It wasn’t until the second half of the 19th century that part of the marshy area along the Tagus River, extending toward Belém, was reclaimed. This development included the creation of the first tram depot. Slowly but surely, sewage systems were established as the increasingly populous city confronted cholera and yellow fever epidemics.

The beginning of the 20th century marked the establishment of the First Portuguese Republic after the monarchy was overthrown and young King Manuel II abdicated. He had reigned for just 2 years before assuming the throne, following the deaths of his father, King Carlos I, and his older brother, Louis Philip, who were assassinated by republican militants. This era also saw the rise of the Second Republic and the establishment of Estado Novo, a dictatorship led by Prime Minister António de Oliveira Salazar from 1933 onward. Additionally, it was in Lisbon on April 25, 1974, that the Carnation Revolution erupted, toppling the successor to Salazar’s regime, and leading to the decolonization of Portuguese territories in Africa and Asia. The first Lisbon Bridge, connecting both banks of the Tagus River, pays homage to this historic event—it is painted red, reminiscent of San Francisco’s Golden Gate.

Tastes of Lisbon

Portuguese cuisine is renowned for its fish dishes, and the typical Portuguese fish 🐟is bacalhau, which is cod. You’ll find countless variations of bacalhau on restaurant plates. Rumor has it that there are at least as many recipes as there are days in the year! 😊 For wandering tourists, a popular snack comes in the form of baked balls called bolinhos de bacalhau, made with potatoes, eggs, onions, and parsley. They are often served with sauce or alongside rice. Right after cod, sardines definitely make their mark, especially the larger Portuguese sardines, which are quite different from the usual ones. The shops offering small colorful tins of sardines are a tourist attraction in themselves. And for soup lovers caldo verde is an interesting choice—a simple soup made with potatoes, cabbage, and sausage (chouriço).

When it comes to desserts, the queen 👑is the pastel de nata. 🧁It’s a small custard tart made from French pastry, often sprinkled with cinnamon or icing sugar. The classic version originated in the Hieronymites Monastery in Belém, where it was baked until 1834 when the monasteries were closed in Portugal.

Later, production moved to a nearby pastry shop, which has been operating since 1837. The recipe for these tarts is supposedly original and closely guarded, resulting in a truly phenomenal taste. You’ll easily find Pastéis de Belém by the ever-present queues in front of the shop. Don’t be discouraged by the lines; you can quickly get a takeaway box of warm tarts to enjoy in the nearby park. Absolutely try them—they taste deliciously different from the various flavored variations sold almost everywhere in Lisbon. If you’re lucky or have more time, you can also sit down for coffee in the pastry shop.

For adults, there’s another must-try: A Ginjinha, a unique Portuguese cherry liqueur. This distinctive drink, with an alcohol content similar to port wine (around 23%), is crafted from aguardente, a vodka-like spirit made from fermented and distilled cherry skins. Ginjinha often features whole, unpitted cherries, prompting the famous question: “com ou sem elas” (with or without them)? The quintessential spot to savor one of the most delightful versions of Ginjinha is a tiny bar near the Church of Saint Dominic. It has been proudly operated by the same family since 1840. Legend has it that the family patriarch acquired the secret recipe from the Dominicans, who were leaving Portugal when monasteries were dissolved in 1834. The monk behind it was Francisco Espinheira, and his name graces the drink sold at this establishment. Taking a shot of this sweet liqueur, served in a brim-filled glass, will undoubtedly leave your fingers sticky, and amuse you as you sense the well-trodden pavement nearby and imagine how many visitors have stood in your place. If necessary, you can wash your hands after returning the glass to the friendly bartenders and continue your exploration of Lisbon 😊. Keep in mind that payment is still cash-only. Some places even serve A Ginjinha in chocolate cups.

Lisbon: The Capital

Coimbra was the first capital of the Kingdom of Portugal, the residence of monarchs, the birthplace of six kings, and the cradle of the first Portuguese university. In 1147, Lisbon, wonderfully situated and highly developed, was liberated from the Moors. Over 100 years later, in 1256, King Afonso III of Boulogne transferred the capital to Lisbon.

The Name Lisbon

This westernmost capital of the European continent has been inhabited for around 3000 years BC by the Phoenicians, who called it Alis Ubbo, meaning “safe harbor”. The Romans later named it Olisipo, and from the 8th century to the mid-12th century, the Moors referred to it as Al-Uxbuna. After the Christian reconquest, the inhabitants eventually adopted a name similar to the one we use today – Lixboa.

The Straw See

The Tagus River, often referred to as the “Trough of the Straw Sea,” sometimes resembles a vast lake at its mouth near Lisbon. In its widest sections, it spans over 20 km (12.43 miles), and its depth reaches up to 46 meters (150.92 feet). Originating 1007 km (625.74 miles) away in the Sierra de Albarracín mountains of Aragon, Spain, the Tagus is the longest river on the Iberian Peninsula. It serves as a border river for 47 km (29.20 miles) before flowing through Portugal for its final 145 km (90.10 miles).

In 1580, when King Philip II of Spain also became King Philip I of Portugal, he sought to assess the navigability of the river between 🔗 Madrid and Lisbon. Consequently, after some minor improvements, a navigable route was established from Aranjuez, located 40 km south of Madrid, to the Portuguese capital. This route was soon utilized to transport marble from Portuguese quarries for the construction of the royal residence, El Escorial, near Madrid.

For centuries, the Tagus has been vital to the people of Lisbon, providing not only defense but also sustenance. The river teemed with fish and oysters, forming the basis of many local dishes.

It’s hard to believe that for centuries, the Tagus was also one of the most polluted rivers, with waste from Lisbon’s homes being dumped directly into it—initially carried by slaves and later through sewer pipes. This situation persisted until 2013!

The Portuguese Colonial Empire

Portugal, seemingly unfavorably located on the edge of the European continent with the Atlantic Ocean on one side and Spain pressing on the other, turned its position into its greatest asset. Guided by their brave maritime pioneers like Henry the Navigator and Vasco da Gama, the Portuguese set sail in the 15th and 16th centuries to conquer the world. They explored the coasts of Africa, reached India, and sailed as far as Brazil. In doing so, they developed maritime navigation on an unprecedented scale and pioneered innovative shipbuilding techniques. They charted routes on unknown waters and brought back vast amounts of wealth from their voyages, including spices, gold, animals, and slaves. Unfortunately, they often displayed aggressive behavior towards the natives under the guise of fighting pagans. Portuguese ships, known as caravels, were the fastest vessels of their time, and the secrets of maps and navigation were closely guarded by King Manuel I himself. These maritime expeditions led to the rapid flourishing of Lisbon, which became a major trading hub. The streets were filled with the finest spices, the most exquisite fabrics, and, regrettably, a thriving slave trade.

The population nearly doubled in the 16th century, reaching 120,000 by the end of the century. This period also saw the construction of impressive religious buildings, such as the 🔗 Hieronymites Monastery in Belem.

Sidewalks

The stunning yet slippery and unsafe Portuguese sidewalks, known as calçada portuguesa, are truly unique. They are made of limestone and basalt cobblestones, with darker stones forming mosaics against a lighter background. This technique was invented in the 1840s by Eusebio Furtado, a military engineer inspired by ancient Roman mosaics. The first such pavement was laid in the parade ground within the walls of 🔗 São Jorge Castle, where General Furtado was governor. Although the pavement was widely admired, it is hard to ignore the fact that prisoners were forced into grueling labor to lay it. These prisoners, the cheapest labor available, worked long hours, bent double and chained, chiseling the cobblestones. In 2007, Lisbon finally paid tribute to its pavers with a symbolic monument. However, back in 1848, the city council, impressed by the castle’s square, eagerly accepted the proposal to pave another square – Rossio – in this style. The work took nearly a year, resulting in the stunning Margo Largo, a wide, undulating sea of stone. Enthusiastic residents replicated the calçada portuguesa in other squares and parts of their empire, such as the famous sidewalk along Copacabana Beach in Rio de Janeiro.