📖 Introduction
The Sé Cathedral, also known as the Lisbon Cathedral, is Lisbon’s oldest church. The term “Sé” originates from Sedes Episcopalis, signifying the bishop’s seat. In its original Latin context, it denotes the seat or chair that symbolizes the bishop’s authority. This historical and architectural landmark in Lisbon showcases a blend of Gothic vaults, Romanesque arches, and Baroque embellishments.
The Cathedral was erected on the site of an earlier grand mosque that had been under Moorish rule since the 8th century. Research indicates that the mosque itself was built upon even older foundations—a Christian temple dating back to the Visigothic period. In the year 1147, during the Second Crusade, the Portuguese successfully recaptured Lisbon by forming an alliance with knights from Northern Europe. Following the orders of Portugal’s first king, Alfonso I the Conqueror, construction of the cathedral commenced promptly and was completed in the early decades of the 13th century. Around the same time, the cathedral received the relics of Lisbon’s patron saint, St. Vincent of Zaragoza, which were brought from the southern part of the country. The first bishop of the cathedral was Gilbert of Hastings, an Englishman
The original church, constructed in the Romanesque style, followed the design by French architect Mestre Roberto. It featured the layout of a Latin cross, with three naves, a projecting transept, and a tripartite apse. Interestingly, this design drew inspiration from the cathedral he had previously designed in Coimbra. As a typical medieval structure, the cathedral’s form showcased defensive elements—evident in its thick walls, small windows, and two towers. Notably, in 1383, an enraged crowd threw Bishop Martinho Anes from one of these towers because of his support for Spanish claims to the Portuguese throne.
The Cathedral, measuring 90 meters (295 feet) in length, 40 meters (131 feet) in width, and reaching a height of 12 meters (39.4 feet) at its highest point, has undergone multiple modifications over the centuries. It adapted to changing architectural trends, but it also endured numerous catastrophes that struck Lisbon. For these reasons, Sé was often described in old guidebooks as an “architectural chaos”. The current appearance of Sé Cathedral reflects the result of its most recent reconstruction, which took place at the beginning of the 20th century. Since 1910, this landmark has been recognized as a national monument.
In addition to the relics of Saint Vincent, the cathedral also houses the Gothic pantheon of King Alfonso IV and a statue of Saint Anthony of Padua, Lisbon’s most renowned saint. Adjacent to the cathedral stood his family home, which has now been replaced by a church bearing his name.
🚶🏻♀️Visit
Exploring the Cathedral is an encounter with over 800 years of history, so it’s worth spending a few extended moments here. While the entrance to the main part of the cathedral is free, it only covers a small portion of the temple. Although you’ll see the altar and the main nave, you won’t glimpse the side aisles, transept, or examine the details. Therefore, it’s advisable to purchase a ticket that includes access to the Gothic cloisters, treasury, and choir as well.
From the elevated choir built in 1952, we can behold the immense interior of the cathedral and closely examine the impressive stained glass rose window adorning the facade of the wall with its two towers. This 20th-century reconstruction replaced the original, which was destroyed during the 1755 earthquake, depicting Christ and His 12 Apostles.
As we explore the cathedral, let’s pay attention to the transept, the part of the church that runs perpendicular to its axis. Here, observe the original Romanesque vaults, crowned by arches added in the 20th century, as well as the stained-glass windows dedicated to the patrons of Lisbon: Saint Vincent and Saint Anthony. Beyond the altar, an octagonal dome rises atop the lantern tower, which was once a bell tower destroyed in 1755. Adjacent to the triumphal arch stands a sculpture of the cathedral’s patroness, the Greater Mother of God, carved in 1909 by Anjos Teixeira.
Continuing our exploration, we arrive at the baroque presbytery, the part of the church where the pews for the clergy (the choir) are located. Take note of the majestic lamp system installed here. Don’t let the stucco ceiling adorned with polychromes depicting the Holy Trinity and the side walls covered in 17th-century marble elements escape your attention. Within this area, you’ll also find two pipe organs—one intricately carved and gilded, dating back to the late 18th century, and the other a contemporary addition.
Next, we proceed through the ambulatory, a corridor leading to nine radiating Gothic chapels. These chapels were constructed during the reigns of Alfonso IV (1325-1357) and John I (1357-1433). It was during this time that the cathedral became a pilgrimage site for the relics of Saint Vincent. Be sure to visit the chapel of Saint Cosmas and Saint Damian, which houses 14th-century tombs, including those of a companion in arms to King Alfonso IV. Additionally, explore the chapel of Saint Ildefonsus, featuring a clay nativity scene from 1766, crafted by the sculptor Joaquim Machado de Castro. Adjacent to a beautiful Romanesque wrought-iron grille from the 13th century lies the chapel dedicated to the cathedral’s patroness—the Greater Mother of God. Interestingly, during the 14th century, this chapel housed the civil registry office of the cathedral.
In the northern nave, you’ll find the patriarch’s vestry adorned with a beautiful baroque gilded altar. Near the main facade, let’s pause at the chapel of Saint Bartholomew Joanes, featuring a Gothic portal, paintings, and a sculpted tomb of the saint. This significant and wealthy medieval citizen of Lisbon always cared for others. In his will, he not only requested masses to be said for him but also the establishment of a hospice for the poor.
Since the cathedral’s inception, the Baptistery, located in the same spot, has been protected by a wrought-iron balustrade. Its interior is covered with tiles depicting the life of Christ. For centuries, the Baptistery served as a place of baptism for many distinguished Portuguese individuals, including Saint Anthony, whose relics are also housed here.
The most valuable treasure in the cathedral museum’s collection is a 90-centimeter (35.4 inches)-tall, 17-kilogram (37.5 pounds) gold monstrance, which was donated by King José I Reformator (1714-1777). This exquisite piece is adorned with over 4,000 rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and other precious gemstones. Truly a remarkable work of art!