📖 Introduction

Before The Monastery

The building of the Monastery of Las Descalzas Reales was one of the first palaces in Madrid, dating back to the 14th century. It hosted the first Madrid Cortes, that is a historical parliament. In that time, they were assemblies of representatives from the royal council, knighthood, and clergy of the medieval states of the Iberian Peninsula.

In the 16th century, the former palace belonged to King Charles I’s treasurer, Alonso Gutiérrez. The King was his frequent guest. What’s more several royal children were born there, including the youngest, Joanna of Austria, the future founder of a monastery.

Joanna of Austra (1535-1573)

Joanna of Austria was an extraordinary figure. She was the wife of Prince John Emmanuel of Portugal and the mother of the future King Sebastian I of Portugal. At the age of just 19, she became a widow and a mother. In the same year, encouraged by her father and brother (King Philip II), she returned to Spain to serve as the regent of the kingdom. She ruled Spain from 1554 to 1559 while her brother was in England, married to Queen Mary Tudor (known as ‘Bloody Mary’). Joanna carried out her duties admirably, with personal dedication and insight, making wise and just decisions. She had an energetic character and surrounded herself with trusted advisors who assisted her in resolving significant military, religious, and political challenges. Joanna never remarried and did not return to Portugal. She maintained correspondence with her son, but she only saw him in portraits.

There is one more story of remarkable Joanna of Austria that went down in history. She was the only woman who joined the male Jesuit order. It was a secret compromise reached due to her determination and persistence. She remained at the stage of ‘eternal scholastic’. This arrangement allowed her to be part of the order while retaining the right to remarry and maintain her private property.

The Monastary

The Monastery of Las Descalzas Reales was established in 1559 at the urging of her confessor and cousin, Francisco de Borja. The monastery provided refuge for many nobly born ladies, including members of the royal family. Each novice from noble families contributed her dowry to the monastery. Generous royal gifts and donations made the monastery one of the wealthiest in Europe. The church was built according to the design of Antonio Sillero, and the facade was created by the architect of the El Escorial, Juan Bautista de Toledo. The monastery space was vast, encompassing a large orchard, the church, and the monastery’s agricultural buildings.

🚶Visit

The Cloister

The guided tour starts in the cloister, whose courtyard was the beginning of Alonso Gutiérrez’s house. The courtyard was changed around 1679, when the high arches were closed—due practical reasons, as the building was too cold. In 1773, during the reign of Charles III, the same thing was made with the lower part, transforming the open cloister corridor into a closed gallery. Within the cloister, you’ll also find the contemporary tombs of Alfonso and Gonzalo de Borbón y Dampierre, as well as the eldest son of the former, Francis of Assisi.

Both levels of the cloisters are connected by a spectacular Renaissance staircase, adorned with frescoes by Antonio de Pereda and Claudio Coello from the 17th century. The paintings embellish both the ceiling and the walls. Among the religious motifs, you will also find the royal balcony. From there King Philip IV and his wife Mariana of Austria, along with their daughter Infanta Maria and Prince Philip Prosper, gaze out.

The tapestries

In the upper part of the monastery, you’ll find chapels adorned with numerous paintings and sculptures. The lower part houses the cells. Here, you’ll also encounter a unique collection of paintings depicting the Habsburg family, created by artists such as Cristobal Morales, Sanchez Coello, Pantoja de la Cruz, Rubens, and Claudio Coello. The monastery’s holdings include a collection of some of the world’s most beautiful tapestries. The most precious are famous series of Brussels tapestries, designed by Rubens. They were gifted by Isabella Eugenia, daughter of Philip II and governor of the Benelux countries. These depict Isabella as the order’s patron saint, “Clare of Assisi with Monstrance”. In a room with high ceilings, once occupied by the nuns’ cells, priceless European Baroque tapestries are hung. For the weaving of these tapestries, Rubens painted color patterns on small-format panels, some of which are preserved in the 🔗 Museo del Prado.

✔ Planner

🚇Metro Opera L5 i L2, 🚌 bus 3, 25, 39 i 148; or a short walk from Puerta del Sol

Visits only with a Spanish guide, 🚶🏼duration approx. 1 hour. ⏳

Tickets: 🎫at ticket counter or 🌐 on-line, free access 🆓is available for various groups, including children under 5, Large Family cardholders, and all residents of the European Union on Wednesdays and Thursdays from 4:00 PM to 6:30 PM If you plan to take advantage of this offer, be sure to arrive early, as the available spots tend to fill up rapidly!

Extra: Near the monastery, you’ll find two of the oldest cafés ☕in Madrid serving some of the best churros with hot chocolate in Madrid: Chocolatería Valor and Churrería Chocolateria 1902. Madrid is renowned for its delightful churros, and these cafés are definitely worth a visit!